Baikal Amazons

Vedomosti, Novosibirsk

Baikal Amazons Conquer the West

I confess I never voted for women. I never wanted my interests to be represented by party fanatics with empty eyes, marginalized female citizens with ready-made remedies for national happiness, or plump ladies feeding on power regardless of whether it’s red, white, or green.

However, I would vote without thinking twice for this team of ambitious and brave Baikal Amazons. First of all, they are interesting and energetic. Secondly, they know what women’s happiness is and how to fight for it.  Thirdly, they are simply dependable people.

And above all – they were able to make their dreams come true, and consequently, are capable of great things. One of the travelers’ husbands wisely noted, “Never stand in the way of another person’s dream, or your own dream will never come true.” Somehow or other, the participants of the women’s motor rally “Baikal – the Baltics 2003” were able to convince the rest of their husbands of that.  So the latter stay at home to take care of the younger generation, while that generation’s mothers conquer the spacious Gobi desert, Chinese mountain passes, West-Siberian swamps, and the plains of central Russia.

This female automotive excess has lasted for five years. That’s how many years the inter-regional club “Baikal Amazons” has existed. It was started in Ulan-Ude, the capital of the Buryat Republic, and later gathered under its wing female citizens from Irkutsk and Krasnoyarsk.

Having set out on their new stunning motor rally from Ulan-Ude to Kaliningrad and back on July 8^th the Amazons couldn’t bypass Novosibirsk. Here they were met by the interregional association “Siberian Union”.  The head of the executive committee Vladimir Ivankov spontaneously started interviewing the pretty automobile lovers, inquiring where they were headed and what drives them.

Svetlana Budashkaeva, the President of the club, answered for everyone, “The purpose of our motor rally is to improve the image of the Russian woman. In our opinion she is undeservedly neglected not only by Russian men but by the Government in general. We support the principles of tolerance, friendship, and mutual understanding. We would like to establish social contacts with the women of the central Russian territories and the Baltics. In fact, the League of Women-Voters of Kaliningrad has invited us.” The Amazons believe that some day a wise woman will be at the helm in our country and our life will become happier.

 “So what is your motto?” Vladimir Ivanovich continued to pry. “Our motto changes every year,” answered the travelers. “This year we drive under the motto “Woman driving her car, leading her family, and running the government.” The curious head of the executive committee of the “Siberian Union” found out, who among the guests had kids, and who had already become Grandmother.  Almost everyone had kids, Svetlana Budashkaeva and the press-secretary of the club, Elena Veselkova, turned out to have 3 kids.  There were also 2 young grandmothers in the team. Vladimir Ivanovich was happy to hear the women had so many kids – future developers and builders of Siberia. He would like the Amazons to each have one more child before the next race, and to encourage female participation in politics, and as a parting gift gave them an encyclopedia “Who Is Who In Siberia.”

According to the rally participants, this is the first time they had driven like decent people.  Previously they took part in races driving their old “Zhiguli” model cars.  They cruised through the Gobi desert in an 18-year old Zhiguli “Kopeika” . On this trip they were able to obtain 6 brand-new “Ladas” with the help from Ulan Ude Lada, Inc. On their way they drve into Lada service centers as needed. The gas was sponsored by the oil company Yukos, and the rest of the expenses they cover out of their pocket, using the funds collected throughout the year.

The rally participants stop for the night mostly in open fields and cook their lunch and dinner on fire. There is no time or money to spend in towns and cities that they drive through. The nights are very romantic – sitting by the fire and singing songs and playing the guitar. The Amazons don’t observe Prohibition. They tried to, but subsequently realized that after all stress has to be relieved by the traditional Russian remedy – Vodka.  But it is only “burhan” – “three drops” in the Buryat language. Before hitting the road the Amazons sang their favorite song – the Buryat anthem. A truly beautiful song.

The rally route is harsh – 16 thousand kilometers that need to be overcome in 45 days. The Amazons are ready for all the dangers and surprises of the long haul. On the road they can do completely without men. Galina Gonsorova is a professional taxi-driver, the club mechanic, and a technical expert. Nadezhda Vershinina changed a tire in 10 minutes in a contest, and beat the male participants to it.  On top of that, she is a female champion of Russia in military sports. Elena Tsydypova is a hunter, and can practically shoot a bird in the eye. There are also a doctor and a press-secretary in the team. Women reveal all of their well-hidden gifts, which are usually suppressed in the presence of men. However, they do not consider themselves to be orthodox feminists. Besides, they have taken two men on the trip - Vladimir Plotnikov, the camera-man, who records all the interesting details of the adventure and Natalya Varhunova’s 10-year old sun, who has spent the third summer vacation with his mom on the road.

They also let us in on another secret. It turned out that the word “amazon” comes from two Buryat roots – “am” and “zon” – which stand for “woman” and “earth.”  The full translation is “Baikal Amazons” – the women of the Buryat land.

So beautiful, brave, and skillful… Only women can manage to wash their cars on a daily basis in the Gobi desert where there isn’t a drop of water, and then shed a tear thinking about their little kid left behind at home. However, in every car they each have a child.  Marina Balzhanova jokingly mentioned,  “They say every house has to have a “domovyonok,” a small, cute house spirit. Each of us has her “machineyonok,” a small car spirit. We are friends with them.”

“We want to take on a round-the-world trip next year.” I bet they’ll make it! 

Svetlana Suchkova